The Curse of the Sideways Biner

Richard Doucette 7/03

This past year I noticed a lot of people attaching biners to their harnesses in a manner that I thought was incorrect. I spoke with an experienced mountain guide, and then looked around for other opinions on this topic. I found an article in the UIAA (International Union of Mountaineering Associations) Journal that presented this same story. I noticed that article has recently been posted on the wall of the Boston Rock Gym. There is room for a lot of opinion, but very few rules, in climbing technique. But this may be one of those areas where one view is clearly better. Here is the story of the sideways biner.

In the days of yore harnesses had did not have a belay loop – that loop of sling right in front that is perpendicular to the waist belt. But for several years, the climbing equipment industry has been making harnesses with this feature. The loop is “captured” so it doesn’t press up against the buckle, which could open the buckle under stress. You connect the locking biner and then belay/rappel right from there. But some people are still in the habit of connecting the waist belt and leg loops with a locking biner, right next to this loop. Then they have the belay loop and a biner parallel to each other. The trouble with this set up is: First, the biner tends to stay parallel to the loop, with the side of the biner facing out. The biner is under some lengthwise tension and may not rotate freely. So the force on the biner (while rappelling or belaying) is on the short axis - sideways. This is about 1/3 as strong as the long axis (7kN vs. 20kN, it says so right on your biner). Second, when belaying or rappelling with this “sideways” biner, the screwgate is likely to come into contact with the rope. The rope moves when you rappel or belay, and that can unlock the biner. Third, the screw gate is the only place on the biner that might have a sharp edge, and that’s not good for the rope. Finally, the length of the belay loop gives you about 6 inches of distance from your rappel device while rappelling. This gives you a bit more room, so that you can get a sharper angle on the rope coming out of the device. This makes for a rappel that is easier to control. (Many guides extend the device a full 24 inches between the harness and the device, to give new climbers even more control.)

The belay loop is specifically designed to be used as the clip-in point for the biner, and there just isn’t any good reason to ignore it and clip into the harness next to it. Why do people use the biner in the old setup? It’s probably a matter of habit, and a belief that the biner next to the loop is safer, since the loop alone looks rather scrawny. Good point, but the loop is double thickness and stronger than any of the slings you are using elsewhere in the system. If you have some weird harness with a scrawny belay loop, then perhaps its time to replace it with a good one. Ditto if the loop appears worn. Want an even more secure tie in? Just clip the locking biner through the belay loop AND the rope tie-in. The rope tied into your harness is right next to the belay loop; clip them both. Ultimately, it’s your decision. If you have a reason for doing certain things, and want to keep doing it that way, then by all means do what you want. But when teaching newcomers in the Rock and Ice Programs, I think it’s incumbent upon us to teach the students to follow the manufacturers instructions; and all manufacturers say clip into the captured loop. There you have it - my thoughts on proper binerage.